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Empellón Taqueria
New York, NY
RestaurantsBars
230 West 4th Street, New York 10014, NY
“The restaurant marks the solo debut of former pastry chef Alex Stupak, best known for his cutting-edge sweets at wd~50 and Chicago's Alinea. Before making the leap into tacos, ceviches and queso fundidos, he traveled through Mexico, boning up on authentic street eats. But the country's deceptively simple cooking can take years---some might say generations---to really get right. And Stupak, it's clear from the food here, is just getting started.
Which is not to say his new restaurant's no fun. This is an attractive, buzzy space, with a colorful mural evoking abstract roses behind a lantern-lit bar. The service is warm, the margaritas fresh, the chunky guacamole well spiced. But the tacos and other antojito snacks mostly fall pretty flat. (When we visited there were no composed entres, though Stupak has since introduced a few.)”
Which is not to say his new restaurant's no fun. This is an attractive, buzzy space, with a colorful mural evoking abstract roses behind a lantern-lit bar. The service is warm, the margaritas fresh, the chunky guacamole well spiced. But the tacos and other antojito snacks mostly fall pretty flat. (When we visited there were no composed entres, though Stupak has since introduced a few.)”
230 West 4th Street, New York 10014, NY
“The restaurant marks the solo debut of former pastry chef Alex Stupak, best known for his cutting-edge sweets at wd~50 and Chicago's Alinea. Before making the leap into tacos, ceviches and queso fundidos, he traveled through Mexico, boning up on authentic street eats. But the country's deceptively simple cooking can take years---some might say generations---to really get right. And Stupak, it's clear from the food here, is just getting started.
Which is not to say his new restaurant's no fun. This is an attractive, buzzy space, with a colorful mural evoking abstract roses behind a lantern-lit bar. The service is warm, the margaritas fresh, the chunky guacamole well spiced. But the tacos and other antojito snacks mostly fall pretty flat. (When we visited there were no composed entres, though Stupak has since introduced a few.)”
Which is not to say his new restaurant's no fun. This is an attractive, buzzy space, with a colorful mural evoking abstract roses behind a lantern-lit bar. The service is warm, the margaritas fresh, the chunky guacamole well spiced. But the tacos and other antojito snacks mostly fall pretty flat. (When we visited there were no composed entres, though Stupak has since introduced a few.)”